25th July
My sister, Jane, arrived via Porto airport and the daily bus to Vigo late this evening.
26th July
A day in Bayona. A chance to do some laundry and for Jane to see the sights of Bayona.
27th July
Rather foggy morning, we left the marina when it cleared just enough to see about half a mile and motored carefully the short distance to Isla Del Faro. Lovely anchorage and amazingly clear water. We anchored in around 7 metres of water and could see the bottom. Nice beach but busy with day trippers and ferries. A couple of campsites on the island meant it was buzzing with people.
28th July
Woke up to see dozens of divers all around us diving for scallops. Had a swim and rowed ashore to check the place out. Looks like some nice walks in the woods and up to the top of the mountainous island but decided too many people.
29th July
Still very little wind. Weighed anchor and motored north to Isla Ons outside the Ria de Pontevdra. Anchored here for lunch. Nice anchorage but not sheltered enough for a longer stay. After lunch wind had picked up a little so we sailed into the Ria de Pontevedra to Sanxenxo. Ria very lovely. Saxenxo beachside touristy place. Not that enamoured but sheltered marina.
30th July
Left Saxenxo marina around lunch time. Wind on the nose out of the ria so took opportunity to tack up and down and tighten loose leward shroads - each side in turn. Cap shroud ok but lower ones too loose. Just tightened them enough to take excessive slack out of them. Sailed further north to next ria - Ria de Arousa. Were hoping to anchor off the island in the middle but wind had picked up and area with best sheltered much busier with local moorings and fishing boats than pilot book had suggested and just not enough room. So decided Puebla del Caraminial best place for shelter and motored across expecting to anchor off beach nr the two yacht club pontoons that pilot book said busy with local yachts. However, where two pontoons supposed to be is now a bigger new marina with shiny new finger berths and plenty of space, so moored up in there instead. Marinero met us and guided us to a berth. Nice little town, not too spoiled, many cafes.
1st August
Foggy mooring. Slipped lines midday when it had cleared sufficiently and motored out of ria. At entrance to ria was able to hoist sail and fog had lifted and we sailed south back to Ria Pontevedra. Big yacht race going on in the ria. Spectacular scenary made race look all the more impressive. Lovely place to sail. Had decided to check out Combarro, a small place at head of Ria which pilot book says has sheltered anchorage and interesting historic unspoilt town. Certainly is. Lovely old granite buildings right by the shore with narrow twisting lanes. All have granaries outside on pillars to stop the rats. Houses with steps down to the shore traditional dwellings for the fishermen. Very pretty and nice cafes with great Tapas.
2nd August
Sailed to Isla De San Martin - just south of the island we stayed at a few days ago. This island is a bird sanctuary and no ferry landings or inhabitants so much quieter and a beautiful anchorage. Definitely much nicer than Isla Del Faro.
3rd August
Back to Bayona. Fuelled up and found a berth in new marina.
4th August
Jane up early to get taxi to Vigo and thence bus to Porto for flight home. Angie arrived in the evening having flown from UK via Madrid and Santiago (then short train journey to Vigo).
5th August
Need to head north as have 4 weeks to get home. But silly for Ange to miss the lovely rias. So selected favourite bits from previous week to visit on passgage north. So did the very short motor across to Isla de San Martin to the lovely beach. Swam to beach in lovely warm clear water.
6th August
To Combarro to show Ange the pretty little town. More Tapas!
7th - 8th August
Missed out Ria de Arousa - wasn’t too fussed with it. Was rather busy and more industrial. Instead sailed up to the next ria - Ria do Muros - and anchored off the town of Muros. Around a dozen yachts anchored here. Prettier ria but wasn’t so impressed with the town itself.
Warnings regarding Hurrican Alex heading East across Atlantic. Front would pass us over early morning. Wind got up but anchor held well over night. Woke to heavy rain. While lying in bed heard some commotion outside and a fog horn. Looked out to see mayhem. Wind had veered and half a dozen yachts had dragged anchor and several were entwined and much jostling going on to avoid damage and disentangle in strong wind and heavy rain. We were drifting and fog horn was to alert us. Luckily weren’t about to hit another boat. So quickly, donning annoraks, started engine. Ange played throttle and helm to keep boat as steady as possible while avoiding being fetched up on seawall and with me shouting instructions from bow to keep chain in right place while I struggled to get anchor up. As it was a deep anchorage I had put all 30m of chain out and around 10m of rope. Rope part had to be hauled up by hand. Hard work, and had to untie backup rope while holding anchor rode in other hand and then coax rope/chain splicing down hause pipe (rope is too thick and splicing I made not the best so doesn’t go down hole easy). Once rope rode up could use windlass on chain. Carefully, so as not to blow fuse and by shouting instructions to Ange on helm to help take strain off rode, managed to get anchor to water level where it emerged with a tangle of around three large warps, pieces of steel cable, a fishing net and what looked like a railway sleeper with large nails poking out. Had to rush below to get a hacksaw and using boat hook to pull pieces away and hacksaw to hack them off while trying not to bash side of boat managed to free the anchor. By this time we were both very wet. After getting anchor stowed a kind gesture was made to us by the chap on the big German catamaran which was moored to a sturdy mooring buoy that we could go alongside him. So kind. He was kindly standing in the rain watching over us and took lines for us to help us alongside.
About two hours later calm descended as front passed away. Rain stopped and sun came out and wind fell to nothing. So decided on shortish trip around Finisterre to Ria de Camarinas. Motored all the way in no wind at all (it’s either all or nothing it seems at the moment!). Anchored in harbour. Many other yachts, mostly French and English here. I suppose it’s an ideal staging post for a trip north or south being right on the corner at Finnisterre. Pumped dinghy up and rowed ashore to get some water. No diesel as it was a Sunday. So poured spare 35lts from jerry cans into fuel tank to give us almost a full tank. Forecast looked good for a long trip to Gijon (180 miles - ~35hrs) tomorrow with wind from the SW. Perfect. No mention of storms and figured now front has passed should be ok.
9th August
Up early at first light to light SW wind and weighed anchor. As we left ria could see huge cumulous clouds on horizon. Could we have rain? Forecast didn’t mention it. A small open fishing boat passed us heading back into the ria after a night of fishing. The fisherman waved, touched his eye and pointed to the clouds, beckoned with both hands towards the land. Was he warning us? We motor-sailed West to clear the hazards off the coast and then gybed to head N along the coast. Not a great deal of wind and the genoa flapped uselessly in the shadow of the main. Altering course later to NE following the coastline round the corner put the wind dead aft. So we adjusted the course by a few degrees for safety and set up a preventor. At one stage we tried the spinnaker. But the three metre swell just kept knocking us around causing the spinnaker to collapse. We then had more luck with the genoa poled out the wrong side. Later the wind went round a bit and we had to gybe both main and genoa. The main kept trying to gybe when the waves knocked the wind out of it. This was getting annoying. By about 1pm the clouds had darkened and started to look threatening. They weren’t moving fast either. At first it looked like where we were going was clearer and we could see the rain over the land. Perhaps we’d be alright out here. But then it got darker and closed in ahead too. In fact dark clouds were all around us. Then at 3pm we saw forked lightening ahead. How long would it last. Should we stick it? I looked at the chart and saw that we were 15 miles off La Coruna - a big place with a good marina. Bugger this, we thought, and turned to head for La Coruna. Dead into the wind so we put the engine on and with the swell heading in we surfed those 15 miles in a little over 2 hours.
Moored up in our allocated berth in La Coruna Ange pulled the engine stop lever to switch the engine off and nothing happened! I looked at the stop lever on the engine to see that it was still connected to the wire from the stop lever in the cockpit. Yes, and it was moving it. But the engine didn’t stop. Oh hell. Ended up shutting the fuel off at the tank to kill the engine. Found a number for a local Yanmar agent and called them. Amusing conversation in half Spanish half English. Not sure if they understood the problem but said they’d come and take a look the next day.
Saw Jezebel - the only other Rally Portugal yacht we know of heading back to the UK - moored in the marina. No one aboard but later on John noticed us and came to say hello and invited us aboard Jezebel for drinks. They were planning to leave that morning and head further East but weren’t impressed with the weather. After a few too many drinks catching up with John and Maggie, Ange and I headed into town. They say things come in threes. Well the third thing (after the weather and the engine) was when I attempted to use a cash machine to get some cash. Just as the machine was about to dispense the money the power went off and the damn thing rebooted. I notice during the reboot that it’s just a PC running OS/2 Warp. Well, at least it’s not Windows I suppose! Of course, the machine retained my card as a momento. Oh dear. Now what. Ange got some cash out at another cash machine. I’d have to see if I could get card back the next day. Hope they’re not like some places in England where they say they have to send card back to issuing bank for security reasons and absolve themselves of all responsibility regarding the cash machine in their wall.
10th August
Couldn’t sleep a wink last night. Using Altavista.com’s babelfish translator early this morning constructed a paragraph for the engineer regarding what was wrong with the engine and what I had done to stop it. Also constructed one for the bank about how their stupid cash machine had taken my card and that they absolutely had to give it back to me - just in case they didn’t speak English. They didn’t but I needn’t have worried. They were expecting me - you could tell from her smile as she read the first line of of my script. She had the card on the desk next to her and after a quick look at my passport handed it over. Phew.
Engineer arrived just after lunch. Nice chap. He read my note and took a look at the engine. Reckons it could just be a case of reconnecting something inside the casing but as the engine under warrenty he needed authorisation from the official agent (he was a freelance chap they had sent as they were busy) before cracking it open. He will phone back after siesta. Fingers crossed he can do it and we don’t have to wait for someone else to come, or order a new unit. Until this is fixed we can’t really carry on and I am anxious now to get to France soon as we really need to be back by 5th September for my cousin’s wedding.
However, it could be a blessing in disguise as it has rained on and off all day and the wind is howling. It might be in the right direction but it still doesn’t look too inviting out there. Jezebel left this morning and wondering if they will get as far as they hope.
La Coruna isn’t a bad place to be holed up anyway. Big city. Many facilities here. Could have happened somewhere remote.
.. will let you know how it turns out in the next installment ….