Csárdás

Wednesday 20th June

Gerry and Phil arrived at the airport just after I had seen Ange and Ben through departures. After a few obligatory pints of guiness we caught a taxi back to the marina. Baby items were stowed and the cot transformed back into a sea berth and the boat readied for sea.

It was raining horizontally and the wind still howling from the SE. The outer visitors’ berth of Kinsale marina is not the best place to be rafted up in a SE gale. A couple of days earlier we had spent a very uncomfortable night rafted up to a large motor cruiser and a heavy maurice griffiths ketch up against us. I was up all night adjusting fenders and no one slept from the howling and slapping of waves against the transom. The second day the ketch left early when there was a lull in the wind. But it soon picked up again and we had another uncomfortable night. The owner of the power boat then turned up amid howling wind and pouring rain and announced he had to be at the yard to meet a lifting out schedule. I was somewhat suspicious as I couldn’t believe the yard would be lifting boats in this wind, but I donned wet weather gear and fired up the engine in readiness and pondered how we’d get away from this boat with 25 knots of wind pinning us against it. It became clear that the power boat owner was relatively new to this game and perhaps it hadn’t occured to him that we didn’t have two enormous engines and a supersized bow thruster like he did.

The marina manager turned up and stated that the power boat wasn’t going anywhere. Sure enough the owner then got a call from the yard to say stay where you are. But the marina manager then told me that if we wanted it there was an inside berth available. We did! Peter from Songlines very kindly offered to assist and bravely stepped into the lashing rain to help. Ange put Ben in his cot and I explained to the power boater how we would attempt to spring off his stern quarter. The maneuver went well and everyone watching was impressed. Once tied up facing the wind in the inside berth it was like the wind had dropped. Suddenly the slapping stopped and we were upright and all was calm again.

So on Wednesday the wind was still blowing from the SE, in the direction we wanted to travel, but the forecast suggested the low should slowly head east and give us NWly winds sometime on Thursday evening.

Thursday 21st June

On Thursday morning the wind had vanished. A slight puff from the North. So after a lazy morning, filling the tank with diesel and buying a few extra items for the ships stores, we headed out of the harbour just before noon.

This would be Phil’s first passage, his longest trip to date Poole to Lymington and back - about 20nm in either direction. He took a few anti-seasickness pills just in case. Probably a good job as there was a bit of a swell left over from the recent strong winds. And with only light winds to begin with the waves would often knock the wind out of the sails. So there was a fair bit of rolling around and crashing and banging of sails to begin with but slowly the wind picked up.

We were all looking forward to Phil experiencing his first night sail and basic tuition on lights was given fully expecting us to see one or two ships and fishing boats. In the event it must have been the most uneventful night ever. It was also incredibly dark. The cloud cover obscured the stars and moon and we didn’t see one other vessel all night!

Friday 22nd June

The wind had picked up on Friday morning and we began to make up for our slow progress. We even managed to fly the spinnaker for a while but took it down when the clouds we had been watching towering up into the sky behind us began to get closer. We weren’t quite sure what it meant but it looked ominous. As it happened the wind picked up only a little and we avoided any rain. We ended up with the genoa poled out instead.

We caught sight of the Isles of Scilly by about lunch time and decided to make use of this wind and get further East. We skirted the northern, rocky shores of the islands and headed across the shipping lanes towards Wolf Rock and on towards the Lizard. Crossing the traffic separation scheme gave us plenty to do as we dodged the ships.

Later on, somewhere near The Lizard I noticed a dolphin break a wave on our starboard side. Then more. Phil was down below making tea or something so I shouted for him to drop what he was doing and get on deck. You never tire of seeing dolphins around the boat, and it’s not a daily occurence in the channel as it is further south, so this was special. For about half an hour we had a large pod of dolphins playing on our bow wave and swimming around the boat. What a treat.

The following night was much more pleasant. The stars were visible. We saw several shooting stars and even a couple of satellites and the phosphorescence sparkled in our wake. In the morning, with the wind dead aft we poled out the genoa to stop it flapping around and picked up our pace.

Saturday 23rd June

I had decided to head to Dartmouth. Neither Gerry nor Phil had been to Dartmouth before and it is my favourite port on the South coast. So I wanted them to see it and experience the grand river entrance. We arrived just before Noon. We could see rain lashing down on the land. It was dry out at sea. It was strange to have to put our wet weather gear on because we were heading into a harbour rather than out of it! We got soaking wet as we motored into the river, but just to give the boys a bit of a tour we motored up to Ditisham and back before mooring at the marina in Kingswear.

With dripping overalls hanging up in the boat we tried to time our trips to the shower block with breaks in the weather and then went over to Dartmouth on the ferry for a late lunch. Back on the boat the weather began to improve and we were soon sitting outside sipping a beer. A wooden 50 foot Sparkman and Stephens designed yacht of around 20-30 years old was tied up outside the pontoon and it turned out was being handed over to it’s new owners, a young Belgian couple. They were left by the old owner with just their dog as crew and asked us if we would help them take it to their fore-and-aft mooring in the river. However, what wind there was was, plus an ebbing tide, was pushing them on to the pontoon and boats of this design and age are notoriously uncooperative under power. A power boat was moored, unattended in front and a boats length behind were moored boats and the boat hoist dock. At first we just assumed the usual role as crew and stood around waiting to be told what to do. But it soon became apparent just how inexperienced this pair was. The young lady on the helm appeared to want to go full power ahead and hope for the best. Gerry and I both knew that the power boat in front would become a heap of fibers if we tried that tactic. I saw three options - one was to spring off, another was to use a long line across to the next trot of boats and pull the bow off, and the other was to move the powerboat. I suggested springing off to begin with as that involved less rope and messing about. This presented two options - springing forward and moving out astern, or springing back and moving out forwards. The first would get us further off the pontoon but then we would be putting our faith in the ability of the boat to steer backwards under power, and we all knew that a boat like this would probably make it’s own mind up as to which way it would go when motoring astern, so we decided not to risk that method. Springing aft would be safest, but wouldn’t get us as far off the pontoon due to the shape of the boat. Sure enough the ebb tide, the wind, the long keel, the shape of the aft section of the boat and no doubt the offset engine all contrived against us. We just couldn’t get the bow to come round far enough. Oh, and the fact that the owners had clearly never sprung off before and the young girl just wouldn’t leave the engine in gear. She finally insisted that I tied the stern line tight and she put the engine in full ahead. I had no idea how that would do anything other than keep the boat on the pontoon, or pull a cleat out of it, but she seemed to think it would pull the bow out. I was beginning to lose patience. We were here to help not give instruction to unwilling students. Finally the most sensible decision was made - to leave it until tomorrow, get the marina to stand by with a rib and try again with the tide and/or wind hopefully pushing the other way.

Sunday 24th June

On Sunday morning after a trip to the chandlery for some necessary and some unnecessary items, including a bit of “practise rope” that Gerry bought for Phil, we were again accosted to help move this enormous yacht. This time the wind was blowing lightly off the pontoon and the marina guy had quite happily obliged with a dory. At the end of the day faced with the option of attending with a launch or the potential for several squashed yachts it is an easy decision for the marina to make. Of course with the wind now helping the boat left the pontoon easily and safely. We then motored up to the trot of moorings to which the boat should be tied. It then transpired that the new owners didn’t actually know which mooring it was and got on the blower to the old owner. Finally they discovered that we were to tie alongside a ketch and that lazy lines had been left for us to pick up. Unfortunately the new owners appeared to be in a bit of a hurry and rather than motor around and reconnoiter the situation they made a decision to go port alongside. The marina guy moored his dory the other side and helped with lines and we were eventually tied up to this ketch after a bit of tug of war against an overzealous helms person. We then discovered that the lazy lines to the buoys were on the other side of the ketch. So we had to cast off and start again, this time the other way round. Again a simple case of helping out turned into a bit of a chore and we all got covered in seaweed and wet from the lines. Eventually the marina guy, eyes rolling, ferried Gerry and I back to the marina. We were left wondering if this couple had bought the right boat for sailing two handed. These boats were build with no engine in mind, when marinas were scarce and designed to be sailed by 12 crew. But I’m sure they’ll learn about the boat’s idiosyncrasies in time. I just don’t want to be moored too near them in the process.

The plan was to leave the Dart that Sunday evening and catch the tide round Portland Bill at 1am. We motored out of the river in a light drizzle at 1830 into a flat calm. The engine stayed on for about 4 hours until the wind started to fill in. The forecast was for NWly gales later. Later means 12 hours. We should be in Poole by then, but hopefully we’d get the beginnings of the gale and get a fair breeze behind us. We certainly did and were soon charging along at 6-7 knots. Phil seemed to be enjoying helming and ended up helming almost all the way, right through the night, and did a great job, keeping us bang on course and at a good pace. The low cloud cover at night meant we could see Portland Bill lighthouse earlier than expected, and we could even see the light from the RACON buoy marking the TSS mid channel. It was a great night sail and as the sun came up we could see Anvil point ahead.

Monday 25th June

We pretty much sailed the rest of the way by eye, back in familiar waters, hanging a left at Anvil point and rounding Old Harry to head North up to Poole Harbour against the wind, enjoying a fast beat into the harbour.

A superb sail back, and what a first passage for Phil, logging 340 nautical miles. We pointed out that many yachts in the marina probably do less than that in a season.

Shame about the weather. We didn’t get to see much of Ireland. But the passages there and back were great fun, in great company. Where to next year?

Awoke to a brighter day. After Ben’s morning sleep we went ashore in the dinghy and had a walk along the cliff tops and into the village. Not much there apart from lots of pubs and a small shop. Only the shop was open so we purchased a few items for our lunch and made our way back to the boat. Ben seems to like the dinghy. He stands at the front mesmerised by the bow wave. Climbing 10 foot down the quay wall ladder into the dinghy with Ben under one arm would have had the health visitor reeling. But then so far we have yet to follow much of their advice or we would be living in a padded cell and never have left the house in the first place.

Once back at the boat Ange gave Ben his lunch as I casted off and hoisted sail. With the wind now from the east we had an easy and relaxing sail along the coast back to Kinsale. Along the way we managed to catch three big mackeral but not before losing two lures. The first due, we think, to a badly tied knot, and the second to a large fish. Our speed had increased to more than mackeral catching velocity and the line was cut clean through, so we reckon something large had chewed the end off.

Ben did well on this sail. He has a sleep soon after his lunch so that gave us a chance to have ours and the gentle sailing gave him a good couple of hours. After his sleep we clipped a harness line to his lifejacket and tethered him in the cockpit and managed to keep him amused for a while. Nearing Kinsale and his attention beginning to wane we strapped him down below and put a Telly Tubbies DVD on. Back to traditional pilotage for yours truly, with the chart plotter laptop reduced to baby cinema. At least it kept Ben busy and safe while Ange and I could wrestle with rafting up.

Kinsale was heaving. Weekend traffic I guess. The 40 metre yacht, Parlay, still taking up half the visitor pontoon. So lots of rafts 4 deep covering the rest. We had to raft alongside a big power boat of most inconvenient proportions - the tops of our stanchions meeting her gunwale, even with fenders down. Some jiggling with doubled up fenders took place while a 73 year old Maurice Griffiths ketch, of some tonnage no doubt, came along side us, ther bow sprit inches from the boat in front. Several miles of rope and fender seemed to sort things out, at least until the swell kicks in …

Noticed Songlines, a Moody 42, which we had seen here last weekend, with a Springer Spaniel on board, here again but this time without a mast. Turns out the couple on board purchased her a couple of months ago from Southampton and are on the way back to their home in the Shetland Isles. Somewhere near Fastnet one of the shrouds broke. They narrowly avoided losing the mast and are now having the rigging replaced here in Kinsale. They said they had planned to take 3 months to get their ‘new’ boat home but have already spent 6 weeks stuck in Ireland. Luckily they are in no rush. And it could have been worse. They are certainly well to have new rigging for their home waters!

Ben away to bed and boats lashed together Ange cooked up the day’s catch and made Patatas Bravas to go with it. Perfect.

A very peaceful evening at anchor in East Passage once the rain had stopped. We awoke this morning to a dry, warmer, but still somewhat overcast, day. Once Ben was down for his morning snooze Ange and I pumped up the dinghy and when Ben woke up we all went ashore to East Grove, which consists of about 2 cottages and a fine pub. We’ve noticed that this tallys with the ratio of pubs to houses everywhere else in these parts! Inevitibly we luncheoned at this particular establishment.

Once back at the boat and Ben had put his head down for his afternoon nap (it must be a hard life being a baby) we weighed anchor. Put mainsail up in harbour and motored out past some old style sailing boats taking part in the Crosshaven traditional sail weekend. (Photo to follow)Whilst motor sailing out of harbour Ange patched a leak I’d noticed on the dinghy.

Once out of Cork harbour were able to sail most of the way to Ballycotton Island in the light northerly pwind. Now rocking about on a visitors buoy outside the small fishing harbour listening to live music coming from one of the many public houses (well I assume there are many - I can see many cottages). Bit of a job lassooing mooring buoy which had no strop. Third time lucky. At one point lost half of boat hook in water but managed also to lasoo that and retrieve it. Anyway, should make Gerry feel better about the fun we had at St Mary’s Pool.

Can’t launch dinghy until patch has set and in any case Ben has just had his bath and is soon away to bed. Hard life. Will go ashore on the morrow.

P.S. Forgot to say - saw a seal near the boat just before we weighed anchor at East Grove.

After spending a few wet boring days in crosshaven we decided to push off and find a nice anchorage somewhere for a change of scene. We thought it best as the weather is supposed to be good for the weekend, infact it looked like it was trying to brighten as we left the marina but a few minutes later it was raining heavily again so Marcus got wet wet wet motoring to where we are now and me and Ben hid down below.

The anchorage we found is in a narrow stretch of water east of Great Island in cork harbour. Its peaceful and pretty and I am hoping it will be blue skies in the morning and I may even be tempted to take a dip! Watch this space!

Sunday was a hot day in Kinsale. We had lunch in the Fishy Fishy Cafe with Ben falling asleep in his pushchair allowing Marcus and myself to indulge in puddings and coffee uninterrupted (oh the simple pleasures in life eh?). In the afternoon we walked to a tiny beach which we were told was a nice secluded place to bring kids and not many people went. Well except for a Sunday afternoon it seemed as we were quick to realise that not only had the entire population of Kinsale descended on this beach, they were also lazy yobs who had parked in every possible place available along the road, up the bank. And at one point even us the humble pedestrians with buggies were hampered by road raging individuals all jammed up a small lane and having trouble passing one another. It felt as though our long hot arduous walk to get there endangered the lives of ourselves and our small child more than if we were out at sea in a storm, due to the lack of pavements and the madness of the drivers. Despite this we made it to the beach and Ben had a good paddle in the sea where he got totally soaked and covered in sand and Marcus spent the rest of the evening cursing the sand that kept turning up on the boat!!

Monday morning we set off to crosshaven in Cork harbour. This harbour is one of the largest natural harbours in the world, so the oracle told me! There was no wind and we motored the whole way and anchored in oyster haven for lunch which was really pleasant. Cork harbour wasn’t far but was quite hard work at times with Ben who did not like wearing his life jacket at all and got bored. So he was grumpy unless he had a crisp or something to eat in his hand. And when it came to checking our position poor Marcus had to run down into the saloon and back every five minutes because I couldn’t put Ben down.

Crosshaven is an interesting place. Only in so much as it looks like sort of a dump in places and there really is not much here apart from a super market and a “chipper” But there is a lot of activity in the marina due to it being where the cork royal yacht club resides and we were very impressed with the amount of children and young people we have seen out learning to sail in optimists and similar small craft all day long!

There are a few nice walks around the coast which we have been on and on Tuesday we went into Cork city on the bus for a bit of shopping. We bought Ben some toys to keep him amused on the boat (for all of 5 minutes) and ran around the bus station like mad people trying to find the right bus home.

I think both of us have now come to realise that it is not worth trying to have the kind of holiday with a one year old that we would have had on our own. The pace has to slow down and expectations of what we can acheive as far as cruising the coast is concerned lowered dramatically.

Its been an eye opener for Marcus and I think he is most probably looking forward to the journey home with the boys without dealing with Ben who has the attention span of a gnat and demanding constant attention. He is of course also looking forward to a few years time when he can teach Ben how to sail rather than teach him how to feed himself!

Weather is changeable too so looks like rain for a few days. But I am sat in the cockpit writing this in glorious sunshine at the moment so we shall see.

As Ben and I collected our bags at Cork airport I said to Ben “Are you ready to see Daddy?”. Knowing that he had not seen Marcus for a week it was hard to tell what his reaction would be, only being 11 months old he may have forgotten who Daddy was! As we entered arrivals and met up with Marcus there were smiles all round. Ben was beaming with delight and from that moment on wouldn’t let Marcus out of his sights or grasp for that matter. Very lovely to see such a happy reaction but then I don’t know why I doubted it would be like this.

So we have been exploring kinsale today(sat). Walked around town in the morning and stopped for a lazy lunch on the boat followed by long naps for Me and Ben. In the afternoon we took a long treck over to Charles fort a few miles away. A 17 century fort which is one of the finest examples to be seen in these parts. The weather was hot and the views were beautiful. Ben was loving eveything and pointing to all he could see. We arrived back in kinsale at 6pm and decided to make a quick dinner stop for all of us as Ben would soon be getting tired and cranky. We had a lovely fish supper in Jim Edwards restaurant and were back on the boat in good time for sleepy head Ben to settle into his huge bunk for the night.

The plan for Monday is to set off for cork after exploring the other side of kinsale and yet another fort. If we make it on Sunday.

Marcus is very excited as our neighbour Phil has said he will be joining Gerry and Marcus on the return journey.

Will try to add pictures later bye x

Sitting in hammock writing this on blackberry in glorious sunshine and beautiful surroundings.

We departed Scilly yesterday morning at 10:00 and motored around to the north side of the islands into a gentle Atlantic swell and a light North Easterly. Once clear of the islands on our course to Ireland we hoisted sail and settled onto a close reach, gliding along at 3-4 knots in only 7 knots of breeze, the water rippling hypnotically past the hull of the boat.

We were in no rush. Ange doesn’t fly out until Friday, so we saw no reason to burn diesel and quicken the pace on this 135 mile leg. As it was the wind picked up a little and we were soon seeing speeds of 6-7 knots on the log.

It was a clear day and the sailing was easy. The sun didn’t set until almost 10pm and the stars shone brightly until the moon lit up the sky. Over night we passed the Kinsale oil fields. Night was short lived and the sky began to turn blue at 3am.

Soon we were in sight of the Head of old Kinsale. By 7.30 we were in the harbour gliding past the magnificant fort of Charles glad to not be enemies of Ireland any more. No way would we want to enter the harbour a foe with that fort so strategically placed.

Great to be here, especially after such great sailing. Looking forward to seeing Ange and Ben on Friday and exploring this part of Ireland.

After quick trip to Chandlery for some essential items we slipped lines and headed out of Falmouth. Wind blowing f3-4 from forecast NW. Sailing down to the lizard with the wind abeam we managed to air the spinnaker for a short while. Gerry seemed a bit nervous when I suggested the spinnaker but was relieved when it went up without any hitch.

The forecast suggested the wind would go round to the north and continue on to the East sometime over the next 24 hours giving us ideal conditions for our passage north to Ireland.

As we slipped past the lizard and turned west the wind blew stronger from the NW. We swapped the spinnaker for the genoa and gathered speed as the wind strengthened. Before long we were romping along at 7 to 8 knots, 9 over the ground.

What an amazing sail. Big grins on both our faces. We made Scilly in 9 hours averaging over 7 knots. A good blast. A great day.

Now on swinging mooring in St Mary’s Pool and wind appears to be gradually turning east. So could be set to leave for Cork tomorrow some time.

Picked Gerry up from southampton airport at 8.30 on Friday morning. Went back to Shaftesbury to do food shopping and Ange took us and luggage down to boat so we wouldn’t have to leave a car at the marina.

Gerry is helping me sail the boat to Cork where Ange and Ben will fly to on Friday. The plan is for Ange, Ben and I to spend a couple of weeks in Ireland before Gerry returns at the end of June to help me sail back and Ange and Ben fly home.

After stowing provisions we motored round to fuel pontoon and milled around waiting for our turn. Finally fuelled up just minuted before 4.30 bridge so ended up waiting near bridge on a swinging mooring for 6.30 opening.

We wanted to get away as soon as we could to make use of the forecast southerly winds rather than have to drive into the prevailing westerlies. Tide going our way past portland bill at midnight so didn’t want to leave too early. The 6.30 bridge was therefore ideal.

Sails up in harbour and sailed out of Poole but then, as expected, had to turn engine on and motor against a light sw breeze. We bashed against a strong spring tide until almost Portland Bill where it turned to whisk us past. Came upon a number of yachts tacking up and down against tide and wind. Must have been a race. Early in the morning the wind picked up from the South and we were able to start sailing and join the racing yachts.

We were both quite tired. Gerry had been up at 4am on Friday to catch his flight, and I don’t think we had quite recovered from our Ipswich to Edinburgh trip on Sun Dog the weekend before. Despite taking it in turns to sleep we both would need a full sleep so decided to stop somewhere for the night. Fowey would be ideal as we’d arrive there by evening.

Entered Fowey harbour just after 5pm and rafted next to some charter yachts. Soon discovered these were chartered by a stag party all dressed as pirates. Not so sure we’d get the full nights sleep we were after.

The pirates all got the water taxi into town and after a bowl of chilly we put our heads down. Amazingly we slept right through without disturbance. I can’t remember the last time I slept for 11 hours! Considering the amount of empty beer bottles that went into the recycle bin on the pontoon I’m amazed we weren’t disturbed. Two of the charter yachts went over to the town quay apparently to go and press gang pirates that had not returned the previous evening. Tut tut

After breakfast of bacon and eggs we slipped lines and headed out to sea. Decided to just do the short 20 miles to Falmouth as wanted to refuel before heading round corner to Ireland. The forecast was for N winds the following day which is not much good for heading up to Cork, but should go round to East on Tuesday. Therefore figured we should take it easy and pop to Falmouth, then Scilly on Monday after chandlery stock up and then wait for the Easterlies before heading up to Ireland.

Had a great sail from Fowey to Falmouth. Light southerly saw us close hauled and slipping through a calm sea along coast. Was very misty so couldn’t see land despite being less than a mile from it at times.

While berthing at fuel pontoon engine decided to cut out when going astern. Luckily not much wind and it started again quickly so no drama. This had happened a few weeks ago when leaving lymington but at the time I had put it down to the engine being cold. Didn’t have that excuse this time. Exhaust also seemed quite smoky when opening up ahead or astern. Gerry diagnosed a dirty air filter. After refuelling and finding a berth we took air filter out and gave it a bath in petrol (well, Gerry did). Very dirty. Wrapped knuckles for not checking it before. Suspect problem solved. Poor engine had been strangled.

It’s now Monday morning. We’ll leave Falmouth for St Mary’s after a trip to Chandlery for a few essential items such as an Irish courtesy ensign that I forgot all about before our trip!

Writing this quickly on Blackberry so forgive me for any typos etc. Will clean up later.

Looks like we now have a plan for June. Have always aimed at heading to Ireland this year, but have realised it is probably expecting a little too much of Ben at only 1 year old for the length of passages required. So plan now is that Gerry and I will sail from Poole on 1st June, to Cork, possibly non-stop, but with time for stopovers if required. Ange and Ben to fly out to Cork on the 8th. Gerry will fly home on the 10th and back in on the 20th to help me sail the boat home, with Ange and Ben flying home on the same day.

So Ange, Ben and I will use the boat as our base in Ireland for a couple of weeks, and the blokes get to do some decent sailing there and back. Plan should give us plenty of leeway should we have bad weather or want to make a stop in Scilly on the way or way back. If we have ideal conditions for non-stop passage we could make landfall further West and spend a day or two exploring coast and craic before being in Cork to meet Ange and Ben.

Phil possibly to join Gerry and I for either outward or return journey.

It might not match Swagman’s plans for 2007, but I can’t wait!